The title sums up my climbing in the last few months. All that, plus few
trips to J-Tree and Tahquitz. I was finishing up my PhD, so was sort of
busy these few months, discovering what all I could have done in my
research during last 4 years, and generally getting sad. A culmination
of this not-so-active and sad phase was a 50 ft fall on the North Ridge
of Lone Pine Peak at around 12000 ft, leading to 18hrs of being
stranded, and eventual helicopter evacuation. This was on May 20th, so
now it has been 3 months of couch suffering.
Let's have a flash back on these last few months. There were two practice trips in February with the Caltech Alpine Club, wherein Patrick, Hamik and I led nearly 20-30 people each time to the top of San Gorgonio. Easy snow camping trips both, but they had their fair share of excitement. Especially on the first practice trip, where one person got lost on the approach, and all the leaders and the veterans on the trip except me had to go looking for him. I then took rest of the group up the mountain, and with help from Bryan and Joel, we practiced variety of basic snow skills and some rope work. The weather was more alpine on this trip, than the second trip the weekend right after.
Right after the second trip, I went to Los Alamos lab, armed with my self-confidence, knowledge and ignorance to give a talk on my work in front of someone whom I consider one of the fathers of my field. At Los Alamos I also met Doug Shepherd, a most inspiring climber-cum-scientist. Doug later visited us at Caltech to talk about disaster style alpinism, something I experienced myself this year.
Anyway, so entire March-April went to talks and writing up my PhD thesis. Oh yeah, I did manage to go to Josh and Tahquitz a few times with Josh, Patrick and Greg. I fondly remember climbing Fool's Gold/White Maiden's Walkway with Josh! And there was the club trip to Whitney, where many of us summitted the Mountaineer's Route in good style.
And now, I was Dr. PT. Yes! Let's go climb! I paired up with Greg Sadowy to climb West Lark at Tahquitz. A 5 pitch climb, where I (by mistake) led my first Tahquitz 5.7! I led the last 5.5 pitch in rain, oh man, that was so much fun! The next weekend Greg and I paired up and climbed the Winter Route on South Face of Lone Pine Peak. This was the veteran's trip of our club, and everyone summitted.
Up from the summit, I saw the North Ridge. The emotions were similar to when I saw Megan for the first time. So pretty! I must know this ridge better! So, in 5 days, Tucker, Erik, Patrick and I got together and set out for a 1-day climb of the North Ridge. We scrambled up to ~11500 feet, where we roped up for the first time on this climb, and I led a easy 5.something pitch. Terrain became easier, we unroped and kept going. Easy class 3, and there was this one easy class 5 move. I shout to Erik "Hey Erik! This move seems awesome! I love it as I am doing it", and grab with my right hand a big flake, and with my left hand a small knob. As I transfer load from feet to hands, first the knob broke, and then the whole flake. And soon I was tumbling down, like Homer Simpson on his staircase. I lost consciousness for a few seconds, woke up, and felt the most pain in my left ankle I have ever felt. I don't really want to talk more about the accident here, it makes me sad. You can read about it here or on google.
That was 1 PM, and SAR folks reached us at 1 AM. Those guys are amazing. Strong and noble. Next morning, at 6.30 AM I was dangling from the side of a helicopter.
The doctors could not believe it when they found nothing was broken - I was so lucky - but I had 3 very deep wounds in my left ankle. I spent 3 weeks on crutches, watching others climb, feeling helpless myself. I also had to cancel my trip to Washington State for which Lauren, myself and others had won the Live your Dream grant of the American Alpine Club. Kyle Dempster visited us during this time and gave a most inspiring and fun slideshow. One day I want to take him to India with me - to Uttarakhand. I know he will love it.
I have now started climbing in the gym (crushing gnarly 5.5s on auto-belay), am headed to the legendary Gunks on 25-26 with randy-T (or Tim), and Tahquitz soon thereafter with Greg Sadowy. Mt. Humpreys East Arete in September, yes! Maybe it is because of the song I am listening to as I write this part (It's natural to be afraid by Sigur Ros), but I can't wait to get back to the Sierra, and laugh, sing, dance, cry all over again.
Man, it's good to be back.
Let's have a flash back on these last few months. There were two practice trips in February with the Caltech Alpine Club, wherein Patrick, Hamik and I led nearly 20-30 people each time to the top of San Gorgonio. Easy snow camping trips both, but they had their fair share of excitement. Especially on the first practice trip, where one person got lost on the approach, and all the leaders and the veterans on the trip except me had to go looking for him. I then took rest of the group up the mountain, and with help from Bryan and Joel, we practiced variety of basic snow skills and some rope work. The weather was more alpine on this trip, than the second trip the weekend right after.
Right after the second trip, I went to Los Alamos lab, armed with my self-confidence, knowledge and ignorance to give a talk on my work in front of someone whom I consider one of the fathers of my field. At Los Alamos I also met Doug Shepherd, a most inspiring climber-cum-scientist. Doug later visited us at Caltech to talk about disaster style alpinism, something I experienced myself this year.
Anyway, so entire March-April went to talks and writing up my PhD thesis. Oh yeah, I did manage to go to Josh and Tahquitz a few times with Josh, Patrick and Greg. I fondly remember climbing Fool's Gold/White Maiden's Walkway with Josh! And there was the club trip to Whitney, where many of us summitted the Mountaineer's Route in good style.
And now, I was Dr. PT. Yes! Let's go climb! I paired up with Greg Sadowy to climb West Lark at Tahquitz. A 5 pitch climb, where I (by mistake) led my first Tahquitz 5.7! I led the last 5.5 pitch in rain, oh man, that was so much fun! The next weekend Greg and I paired up and climbed the Winter Route on South Face of Lone Pine Peak. This was the veteran's trip of our club, and everyone summitted.
Up from the summit, I saw the North Ridge. The emotions were similar to when I saw Megan for the first time. So pretty! I must know this ridge better! So, in 5 days, Tucker, Erik, Patrick and I got together and set out for a 1-day climb of the North Ridge. We scrambled up to ~11500 feet, where we roped up for the first time on this climb, and I led a easy 5.something pitch. Terrain became easier, we unroped and kept going. Easy class 3, and there was this one easy class 5 move. I shout to Erik "Hey Erik! This move seems awesome! I love it as I am doing it", and grab with my right hand a big flake, and with my left hand a small knob. As I transfer load from feet to hands, first the knob broke, and then the whole flake. And soon I was tumbling down, like Homer Simpson on his staircase. I lost consciousness for a few seconds, woke up, and felt the most pain in my left ankle I have ever felt. I don't really want to talk more about the accident here, it makes me sad. You can read about it here or on google.
That was 1 PM, and SAR folks reached us at 1 AM. Those guys are amazing. Strong and noble. Next morning, at 6.30 AM I was dangling from the side of a helicopter.
The doctors could not believe it when they found nothing was broken - I was so lucky - but I had 3 very deep wounds in my left ankle. I spent 3 weeks on crutches, watching others climb, feeling helpless myself. I also had to cancel my trip to Washington State for which Lauren, myself and others had won the Live your Dream grant of the American Alpine Club. Kyle Dempster visited us during this time and gave a most inspiring and fun slideshow. One day I want to take him to India with me - to Uttarakhand. I know he will love it.
I have now started climbing in the gym (crushing gnarly 5.5s on auto-belay), am headed to the legendary Gunks on 25-26 with randy-T (or Tim), and Tahquitz soon thereafter with Greg Sadowy. Mt. Humpreys East Arete in September, yes! Maybe it is because of the song I am listening to as I write this part (It's natural to be afraid by Sigur Ros), but I can't wait to get back to the Sierra, and laugh, sing, dance, cry all over again.
Man, it's good to be back.
