We then set up camp at Sam Mack Meadows, around 11,000 feet. The plan was to head up 800 feet the steep looking chute you see in this, but the snow looked funny, and the trees at Sam Mack seemed better from shelter perspective (especially since 50 mph gusts were in the forecast), so we stayed at Sam Mack.
Day 2 was allotted for climbing Mt. Gayley (13510 feet), as an easy class 3 acclimatization peak. Leaving camp at a leisurely 7.45 AM, we climbed up to the Palisade glacier, traversed on it admiring the sights of the Palisade ridge and climbed up to Glacier Notch. From the time I had climbed Mt. Sill, I remembered the climb up to the notch to be an easy scramble. But now it was full of snow, so was a little funky, and gave the satisfying pleasure of listening to the sound of crampons scratching on loose tumbling rocks. I had forgotten my helmet and was promptly scolded by BG for it.
All of us on the summit of Gayley:
We then decided to downclimb the southwest ridge itself, as we were concerned about descending the steep icy snow especially since there was loose rock around.
We then descended the notch, ran across the glacier amazed as we saw skiers everywhere on the mountain. There was a group climbing up the L-couloir on Sill, with skis on back. There was another group that had climbed up U-notch to ski it down, and was now climbing up the V-notch to ski! Unbelievable! I had left some food at the top of the notch. When I got back i saw that the garlic naan was gone (probably taken by birds that were circling around as we were climbing up, or by the skiers on Sill). But once again, my trusty Nutella was untouched!
We were lucky enough to find a small patch of breakable ice in the lake above Sam Mack. We broke through it and filled up stomachs and bottles with as much water as we could, accompanied by loud water burps (the kind Calvin makes to irritate his folks).
We were back at camp by 2.30. Very soon we were joined by 4 other climbers: The Kedrone, Erik the Red, Theo, and Hamik. Much laughing and gossiping ensued. A lazy dinner and we were in bed by 6 PM. The last night had been pretty cold, and the morning had greeted some of us with frozen boots and ice bottles instead of water bottles. Thus tonight our sleeping bags were especially full with all kinds of smelly crap to avoid freezing. Next morning we woke up at 3-3.30 AM, and were up and climbing by 4.30. My head lamp seemed lazier than me, and I spent 10 minutes doing kala jaadu on the batteries. We climbed up the first 1000 feet in 45 minutes, pretty good for 12000 feet elevation. We were then lucky enough to see an amazing tequila sunrise and alpenglow: Winchell in alpenglow below (Patrick, I and others climbed last June when we climbed Sill too).
Spindrift was pretty constant and most of the day today looked as if it was snowing. Our route was the North Couloir. The first challenge was the bergschrund - yes, that same bergschrund which had tried twice to eat some of us. Luckily it seemed pretty full, so we happily stomped across it. So we climbed up the North Couloir and soon reached the top of it. Now we downclimbed a little into where the Southwest Chute comes, and then climbed up some 45-50 degree snow to attain the notch between the Lightning Rod and the real summit.
Hamik now fixed up a line for everyone to take to the summit. I clambered around to find an easier looking class 4+ chimney route, which I free soloed up to be greeted at the summit around 8.15 AM by a surprised Hamik's "WTF!". Everyone else gradually reached the summit. The next challenge was to climb the 5.9R summit block. We tried a little to lead climb it, but the combination of cold and tiredness made it difficult. So the two French in the group joined forces to lasso the summit block after which all of us climbed it.
A quick rappel from the summit, and then we retraced our way back to the camp. The snow bridge on the bergschrund was still strong. We reached camp by 3ish, and hiked out between 4 to 5. Temple Crag lured me again, I guess she wants me to come back and climb her. OK, soon my dearie. We were back at trailhead by 7-8 PM on Day 3, and were soon stuffing our mouths with food at the Subway in Lone Pine.
(All pictures courtesy: Odin, Patrick and B.G.)
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