Gunks - Echo Cliffs - Tahquitz x 2
3 months have now passed since my stupid fall, and I was getting restless, angry, almost desperate to climb. Now in this last month I have been able to get out and climb 4 out of 4 weekends!
The first was August 25-26. I spent the month of August at Brown University, and took the chance to finally head out - climbing with Tim at the Gunks. Mellow 2 days, and we got a first taste of the Gunks. We climbed in the Trapps. Day 1 was Northern Pillar (3 pitches, 5.3) and Minty (we did first pitch, 5.4). Tim led all of Northern Pillar, while I led Minty. By the end of the first day my ankle was swollen enough that my left shoe was too tight for it. Day 2, we climbed Three Pines (5.4), where I led P1 and P3. Fun, easy climb, and I could see how out of shape I have been after 3 months of couch-hugging! I then wanted to rest the ankle, so I belayed Tim on some hard top-ropes, he was having dinner later that night with friends and I am guessing he wanted his forearms to look pumped and masculine.
The next weekend on 1st Sep, Greg, Patrick and Clara went with me to Echo Cliffs. It was rather hot! Greg and Patrick led some 5.8s, that I meekishly followed. I then led a short easy 5.7, and then followed Greg on that 5.9 next to the trail.
The third weekend started early. Megan's friend Kim was visiting from the UK, and we were going to the Sierra Nevada on Sat/Sun 8-9 Sep for hiking/hot springing. So, I went climbing on Friday with someone who never says no to "hey want to go climbing?" - Josh Zahl. We thus went to Tahquitz on Sep 7, and climbed the nice Fingertrip (5 pitches, 5.7-5.8, three stars in the guidebook). Josh led the first lieback pitch. I led P2, but went a little too far left, got into some 5.8, got tired soon, and belayed Josh up from a nice hanging belay. Josh led P3, a short P4 that I led got us to the lunch ledge. P5 was Josh's lead, since I was not quite excited about leading the 5.5 slab at top with its one lonely bolt. 8.30 PM, back in Pasadena, and then drove to Big Pine with the two ladies. The next day we hiked up to First Lake near Temple Crag and basically had a nice weekend, ending at Santa Monica Beach. I saw 5 shooting stars in an hour on Saturday night from the hot springs near Bishop! This is Josh and I after topping out on Fingertrip, I borrowed Megan's camera that day.
The fourth weekend in this "first month back into climbing" was on September 15th. Jeandrew was visiting from South Africa, and I saw her in the Red Door Cafe. 2 or so years ago some of my first trips to Tahquitz were with Jeandrew, when she would patiently lead all the pitches. I asked her if she wanted to go to Tahquitz and she immediately said yes. So Josh, Jeandrew and I went to Tahquitz and climbed the super-fun Left Ski Track (5.6, 3 pitches, again a 3-star route in the guidebook). I led P1 and P2 while Josh led P3. We were not super efficient, and it took the three of us 5-6 hours for the three pitches. All three pitches were worth the three star rating! I almost connected P2 and P3 by going up the arete that leads to a bolted slab, but right before the bolt I searched for my balls and I got a "DOES NOT COMPUTE" message. So I downclimbed the arete (airy!), and belayed the other two. The step-around move on P2 was actually not that scary, but the part on P2 till the step-around was tiring, with the crack bveing somewhat awkward. I saw Roman from the top of P2, that was nice! He is a monster, he climbed El Camino Real, Whodunit and something else that day.
Left ski track and Fingertip traverse were the first two routes I ever climbed at Tahquitz, perhaps 3+ years ago when I followed Hamik. It is some sort of coming-of-age for me to be able to go back and lead LST.
Now I am icing my ankle, waiting for this second month to
commence. There is much on the menu - Tahquitz, Gunks, East Arete on
Humphreys (alpine!), and hopefully, Palisade Traverse.
3 months have now passed since my stupid fall, and I was getting restless, angry, almost desperate to climb. Now in this last month I have been able to get out and climb 4 out of 4 weekends!
The first was August 25-26. I spent the month of August at Brown University, and took the chance to finally head out - climbing with Tim at the Gunks. Mellow 2 days, and we got a first taste of the Gunks. We climbed in the Trapps. Day 1 was Northern Pillar (3 pitches, 5.3) and Minty (we did first pitch, 5.4). Tim led all of Northern Pillar, while I led Minty. By the end of the first day my ankle was swollen enough that my left shoe was too tight for it. Day 2, we climbed Three Pines (5.4), where I led P1 and P3. Fun, easy climb, and I could see how out of shape I have been after 3 months of couch-hugging! I then wanted to rest the ankle, so I belayed Tim on some hard top-ropes, he was having dinner later that night with friends and I am guessing he wanted his forearms to look pumped and masculine.
The next weekend on 1st Sep, Greg, Patrick and Clara went with me to Echo Cliffs. It was rather hot! Greg and Patrick led some 5.8s, that I meekishly followed. I then led a short easy 5.7, and then followed Greg on that 5.9 next to the trail.
The third weekend started early. Megan's friend Kim was visiting from the UK, and we were going to the Sierra Nevada on Sat/Sun 8-9 Sep for hiking/hot springing. So, I went climbing on Friday with someone who never says no to "hey want to go climbing?" - Josh Zahl. We thus went to Tahquitz on Sep 7, and climbed the nice Fingertrip (5 pitches, 5.7-5.8, three stars in the guidebook). Josh led the first lieback pitch. I led P2, but went a little too far left, got into some 5.8, got tired soon, and belayed Josh up from a nice hanging belay. Josh led P3, a short P4 that I led got us to the lunch ledge. P5 was Josh's lead, since I was not quite excited about leading the 5.5 slab at top with its one lonely bolt. 8.30 PM, back in Pasadena, and then drove to Big Pine with the two ladies. The next day we hiked up to First Lake near Temple Crag and basically had a nice weekend, ending at Santa Monica Beach. I saw 5 shooting stars in an hour on Saturday night from the hot springs near Bishop! This is Josh and I after topping out on Fingertrip, I borrowed Megan's camera that day.
Left ski track and Fingertip traverse were the first two routes I ever climbed at Tahquitz, perhaps 3+ years ago when I followed Hamik. It is some sort of coming-of-age for me to be able to go back and lead LST.
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